Madder
Rubia tinctorum
Hardy perennial
DYE: Red, red-orange, pink
 
GROW: Start Madder indoors 8 weeks before the last frost date, then transplant, spacing 12” in full sun, low to moderate water. Madder spreads easily by roots, but can be controlled with mindful watering. Propagate by bending stalks and burying a portion to start a new plant. Stalks grow to 3’ and typically fall over and make a tangly mass. Leaves and stalks are prickly and can irritate the skin. Harvest the dark purple berries in the fall to save seed. In early spring, remove the dead stalks to allow for new growth – you’ll notice the pigment-rich orange roots at the base of the new shoots!
 
HARVEST: The roots are the dyestuff, and the plant must be at least three years old for the roots to have developed good dye potential. Ideally, roots should be about pencil thickness. In the fall, dig up the entire plant, compost the above ground growth. Optional: save some small leafy stalks with root attached to start new plants. Cut roots apart, vigorously wash off soil, and chop into 1” or smaller pieces. Dry out of direct sun and store in an open paper bag.
 
EXTRACT DYE: While Madder is a water soluble dye, its behavior can take some getting used to. This ancient dye plant is very light and wash fast, and requires a higher ratio of plant to fiber than many other dye plants – a 2:1 ratio of dyestuff to fiber should achieve medium color. Once dried, weigh the amount needed for your project. Grind it in a coffee grinder (that is not used for food) to a coarse powder, put in a non-reactive pot and pour boiling water over the ground Madder, let sit for ten minutes, stir and and strain. Discard the orangey-brown liquid that will interfere with achieving a red dye. Refill with clean hot water and let soak overnight. Bring to just below a simmer for an hour, remove from heat and cool, then strain through cheesecloth or a clean old t-shirt. Dry used Madder to use again. Exhaust baths often dye pink.