reference
a tip-of-the-iceberg peek into using and growing botanical dyes

dye tips

• Botanical dyes work on protein (animal) fibers such as wool, alpaca, and silk; and cellulose (plant) fibers like cotton, flax, and hemp. They typically produce stronger colors on protein fibers than on cellulose fibers.

• Plant material can be used dry or fresh. The ratio of plant material (dyestuff) to fiber is measured by weight and varies depending upon the strength of the plant’s dye properties. The pigment in dried plant material is more concentrated than when fresh. Ratio recommendations in this website are based on dried plant material.

• Fibers must be thoroughly scoured prior to mordanting to remove any trace of dirt and oil to provide a blank slate for optimum dyeing.

• You must mordant your fibers in order for natural dye pigments to adhere. There are many types of mordants to choose from depending upon the type of fiber and the desired colors. Alum acetate and alum sulfate are typical mordants that prepare the fibers to create a secure and lasting bond with natural dyes. Pre-mordants, such as rhubarb leaf or oak gall will further improve depth of color.

• The amount of pigment available to your fiber in the dye bath is calculated by the ratio of the weight of dyestuff to the weight of fiber (called weight of goods, or WOG). The amount of water in your dye bath is irrelevant, as long as there is enough water for the fiber to freely move about. Gently stir from time to time to ensure even color distribution. Move wool fibers as little as possible to prevent felting.

• Your first dye bath will yield the strongest color. Save the leftovers, called “exhaust bath”, to dye lighter tones. 

• Dye baths can be saved in a plastic or glass container to use at a later date – if mold develops on the surface, simply scoop it off.

• If you want to create color from multiple plants, dye one color at a time to avoid the colors getting muddled. A good example is to first dye with Weld, then over dye with Indigo to achieve beautiful vibrant greens.

• There is much flexibility in using a dye bath. In general, the longer your fiber is in the bath the stronger the color achieved. Similarly, the longer your dyestuff steeps the more pigment is released into the bath. Solar baths extract color slowly with the heat of the sun and can be kept in a jar in a sunny window for weeks!

• Bundle dyeing can produce strong colors through direct contact of the dye plant with the fibers. Save plant material from bundle dyeing to coax more color for a subsequent dye bath, or put it in your compost.

• Dye pots – and all metal equipment that comes in contact with the dyes and fibers - must be a non-reactive material, such as stainless steel or enamel. Aluminum, iron, and copper pots can leach metals that will alter the color. Which can be a good thing if that’s what you want! For example, iron will “sadden” or darken botanical dye colors. 

• Always remember to follow good safety protocols during the dye process. Pots, bowls, utensils, etc. cannot be used for food. (Hint: hit the thrift stores for stainless steel pots, bowls, strainers, and utensils to have a set just for dyeing)

• The light- and wash-fastness varies among dye plants. Lots of organic matter can produce color, but many are fugitive, meaning that their color won’t hold up with extended exposure to light or with frequent washings.

• Some plants such as Indigo, Woad, and Alkanet require special processes to extract dye properties.

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